Panoramic view of Lisbon from the rooftop of the Rua Augusta Arch. Photo: Andrea Insa Marco.
Like a postcard for sale to tourists, yet still retaining its character, Lisbon unfolds from the upper neighborhoods to the Tagus estuary: low houses hidden among steep streets, crisscrossed by trams, contrast with grand avenues of luxury brands and gourmet restaurants; traditional grocery stores coexist with chains of custard tarts; temporary graffiti confronts the eternal tiles of the city bathed in Atlantic light.
It is not possible to know the urban puzzle that is the Portuguese capital in a single trip, but discovering what makes it an essential European destination is the first step to visiting Lisbon, the city where everything, without haste, leads to the Tagus River.
Wandering through its neighborhoods.
There’s no set route through Lisbon’s neighborhoods. You have to get lost. Get lost to discover colorful, tiled facades, small squares shaded by trees, or tucked-away bars with views.
Despite the hordes of tourists, Alfama retains the bohemian and traditional spirit of the fishermen who settled in the neighborhood after the 1755 earthquake. With fado —Portuguese folk song— as its soundtrack, the neighborhood houses, within its winding layout, the “castelo” (castle) of São Jorge and the Sé de Lisboa.
Located at the top of Rua do Carmo, Chiado, once a meeting place for writers, is a neighborhood rebuilt after the 1988 fire. Today it houses boutiques, cafes, galleries, bookstores, and theaters. In contrast, Baixa, rebuilt after the earthquake, is flat and commercial.
The epicenter of Lisbon’s bohemian scene is Bairro Alto: urban art murals, vintage shops, and nightclubs line its streets, making it the city’s party hub. Downriver, away from the center, lies the historic district of Belém, from where ships departed for the other side of the Atlantic in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Ride their trams.
Lisbon is a city of varying elevations, traversed by its characteristic trams, which offer six lines connecting important points of the city. Winding through the neighborhoods of Graça, Alfama, Baixa, and Estrella, the 28—the most famous—offers classic wooden seats from the 1930s and the best views of the city.
Two other important lines are the 15, which goes from the center to the Belém district, and the 12, which makes a circular route between Martim Moniz Square and the Santa Luzia viewpoint.
Discover Portuguese ceramics.
On social media, Lisbon tiles flood the profiles of those who visit the city. But the origins of this ceramic go back much further. At the beginning of the 16th century, the use of tiles as wall coverings began to gain popularity in Lisbon, and its national production began in the second half of that century. But it wasn’t until the 17th century that this material became established as an art form and a symbol of Portuguese identity.
The evolution of this ceramic art in Portugal, from the 15th century to the present day, is showcased at the National Tile Museum, located in the former Madre de Deus convent. In addition to the exhibition, the museum also explains the tile-making process and demonstrates the restoration of pieces.
View Lisbon from above.
From the Tagus River, the urban fabric of Lisbon rises. Its viewpoints, scattered throughout its neighborhoods, offer different perspectives on the architecture and daily life of a city that must be contemplated from above.
Portas do Sol is the most popular viewpoint thanks to its vistas of the Alfama district and the Tagus River. Santa Luzia, on the other hand, offers not only a different panorama but also street performers; however, if tranquility is the best option, Graça is the better choice. And crowning Lisbon are the São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint, in the highest part of Bairro Alto, and the Nossa Senhora do Monte viewpoint.
But there are more than just viewpoints from which to enjoy the city. Perched on a hill, the São Jorge Castle dominates the Lisbon landscape. Although it’s not an aesthetically pleasing space—some sections remain in ruins after the earthquake—the fortress offers a panoramic view.
Another option for admiring the skyline is a neo-Gothic structure built in 1902 as a public transport system: the Santa Justa Lift, which connects Baixa with Bairro Alto. Or, walking down Rua Augusta, one of Lisbon’s main commercial and tourist thoroughfares, you’ll find the neoclassical Arco da Rua Augusta. You can climb this monument and enjoy the perspective offered by its 30-meter height.
Explore the course of the Tagus River.
After passing through the Arco da Rua Augusta, you’ll find Praça do Comércio, the heart of Lisbon’s tourist life, which leads to the Cais das Colunas pier. This area was home to the Royal Palace of Lisbon until the end of the monarchy in 1910—the statue of José I stands prominently in its center—and was a key location during the Carnation Revolution.
Following the course of the river, and moving away from the center, the 25th of April Bridge stands out, spanning the Tagus River and providing access to the city of Almada. Here you will find the National Sanctuary of Christ the King, a religious monument.
In the Belém district, a 1960 structure rises in homage to the fifth centenary of the death of King Henry the Navigator: the Monument to the Discoveries. Some fifteen sculptures, including those of this monarch, Vasco da Gama, and Ferdinand Magellan, are clustered at its base, along with a 52-meter mosaic in the shape of a compass rose, which contains a world map within it.
Built and designed between 1515 and 1521 as a gateway to the city and as a defense against possible attacks from the Tagus River, the Belém Tower, with its appearance of a beached ship, is an example of Manueline style, the Portuguese interpretation of late Gothic.
Visit their temples.
Just steps from the Belém Tower stands another imposing example of Manueline architecture: the Jerónimos Monastery. Designed to commemorate Portuguese explorers, its cloister and church are decorated with nautical and religious motifs, and it houses the tombs of historical figures such as Luís de Camões and Fernando Pessoa. Walking through its courtyard and passing under its arches is a highlight of any visit.
The Carmo Convent is not a sacred space, but rather the skeleton of one. Partially destroyed by the earthquake and burned by the fire that ravaged the Chiado district in 1988, the church remains standing with its walls and arches supporting a roof that is no longer there. It houses the Carmo Archaeological Museum.
Far removed from mystical auras and religious aesthetics, Lisbon Cathedral is more of a fortress than a temple. A simple rose window and two bell towers adorn its main façade, built in the 12th century on the remains of a mosque. The interior is structured around three naves that house the Gothic cloister, the chapels of Bartolomeu Joanes and Saint Ildefonso, and the crypt.
Lisbon is not eternal – although the spaces and areas that give it its identity are – but it is a place whose life, daily or temporary, offers, without exception, something new to discover every day, on every trip.
ANDREA INSA MARCO.
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